In order to get more room in the cabin I have made the cabin sides about 2 inches higher and 10 inches longer (sacrificing some space in the cockpit), and given more camber to the cabin roof. I have also raised part of the roof an extra 7 inches. The picture to the left is roughly to scale and shows what the roof will look like when finished. By making the front of the raised section slope I hope to give it a less boxy appearance.

	The cabin sides fix to the carlins and inner edge of the decking which needs to be planed in readiness. The cabin sides are vertical at their aft end but lean inwards at the forward end so I used a bevel to get the correct angle on the carlin and deck edge.
	Planing the inside face of a curve, as in this case with the carlins and inside deck edge, is very difficult with an ordinary plane. I am very grateful to possess this old plane with a flexible sole that adjusts to different curves. Without it I would have had much more trouble with this particular job - I'd probably have resorted to using a spokeshave.
	I tried the cabin sides in place with clamps and whilst it was in place drew pencil lines to mark the bottom of the carlin and the top of the deck. I made the cabin sides 10 inches longer than on the plans, sacrificing a bit of space in the cockpit to give more accomodation inside.
	The pencil lines are just visible on this photo. I used the line of the deck as a guide for the bottom of the windows so that they will follow the boat's sheer. Then having drawn the bottom of the windows I used a compass to draw the ends of the windows and finally joined up the top of the compass marks for the windows top line. The diameter of the compass was decreased slightly each time going forward so that the windows will get a little smaller towards the bow of the boat.
	Cabin sides fixed with screws and Balcotan glue. Due to the sloped front of the cabin sides it is not obvious in this photo that they lean inwards at their forward ends, but the twist is more evident if you look at the window openings.
	The cabin front was a bit tricky. To get the curve right at the bottom for a good fit on the deck meant repeatedly planing it and trying it, but I am pleased with the result. Aft of the cabin, the cockpit is surrounded by a coaming, which continues on from the cabin sides. These were much easier to cut and fix than the cabin sides.
	I made the coamings about 2 inches taller than the dimension in the plans. This is because I am planning to make the cockpit self-draining and so the seating will be relatively high up. ( In a self draining cockpit water coming into the cockpit automatically drains out of the boat through holes in its floor, which means that the cockpit floor must be above the water line and about 6 inches higher that in the plans )
	Fixing the bulkheads into place.
	Preparing the top of the cabin sides where they will meet the roof. I found that making partial cuts on one side of the strips of 1x1 framing made them much easier to bend to the cabin sides (joiners call this "kerfing").
	I made the roof beam from several pieces epoxied together, and fixed the forward piece of the raised section of roof to it. Besides forming the front of the raised bit of roof it will add to the strength of the beam.
	In this picture the roof beam has been fixed in place.
	It seemed obvious to make the lower part of the roof from three pieces. A single piece right across at the front, and two narrow pieces at the sides. The forward piece needed to bend quite a bit and needed careful shaping where it met the forward end of the raised roof, so I made a cardboard template first. I then fixed this part of the roof down with screws and epoxy.
	Inside view of the forward part of the roof.
	I added extra framing underneath where the forward part of the roof will meet the side parts.